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Halloween

Halloween

Sunday, June 14, 2009

UPDATE: Dachau and Munich

We went to Dachau concentration camp near Munich. It was a somber experience but well worth the visit. Upon arrival one of the first things we noticed were the old train tracks and brick road leading into the gates of the camp. Prisoners were transported into the camp predominantly by rail car, but also periodically by truck. It was difficult standing at the guard gate where so many had stood before imagining what it was like to have been them. Since Dachau was the first concentration camp in Germany many others used it as a template. The prisoners being held there in the early years of its existence likely had no idea what they were getting into.

When you enter the camp one of the first things you notice are the huge, heavy iron gate with a phrase written in German on them. The phrase translates literally as "work brings freedom." The camp was designed to hold 6,000 but actually held over 60,0000. The barracks were crammed full of prisoners with hardly any room for one to sleep. There was also a prison on the grounds were many political prisoners and jews were held and tortured. Such torture included holding individuals in cells that were so tiny one could not sit or lie down. People would be held in these cells for days often deprived of sleep or muscle movement. Behind the prison were located 5-7 concrete poles. The prisoners were tied up by their arms so their shoulders would become dislocated as they hung from the concrete pole.

Dachau was not designed as an extermination camp like Auschwitz, but the practical effect of the goingson at the camp would not allow someone to distinguish the two. Dachau did contain a gas chamber where prisoners could be placed in gas showers. For whatever reason, still unknown, it was never used. Immediately next to the gas chambers were six creamatoriums where many dead bodies were burned. There were so many dead bodies to burn the camp did not have enough coal to burn to get the creamatorium hot enough to incinerate human flesh. This is particularly heartwrenching especially since they were not only used to creamate dead bodies. Live humans were placed inside these ovens to suffer before death overcomed them. About 100 yards from the creamatorium was a pistol range where prisoners would be lined up against a ditch or concrete wall and executed. So many men died here that blood flooded the area so the Nazis dug a blood ditch to drain all of it.

Mass graves were also uncovered at Dachau with thousands of unnamed men buried there.

We viewed a short movie at Dachau. At the end of it the woman sitting behind me fell into a chair striking her head. At first I thought she tripped then I realized she had gone completely pale and fallen back in her chair a second time. We started yelling for a doctor and 2-3 men came over to help pull her out into the center aisle where she could be placed in the open. When I left she was coherent and had regained her color...still a scary moment. Hope she is ok.

On the Munich...we arrived at our hotel, Le Meridian Munich, which was extremely nice. Filled with trendy modern decor we were close to the train station and Marktplaz. We walked to the Marktplaz through whoards or people. So many so it was frustrating trying to move. Street performers dressed in costume were everywhere holding their positions like statues. Other performers played music that grew quite a crowd, all of whom were seeking to enjoy the free concert on the square.

Past the shops and massive crowds laid the Marktplaz with its courthouse imposing menacingly over the square. It was a tremendous building with a large clock "glokenschpiel" that rang every hour on the hour. This captured everyone's attention because two figurines would come out and do a dance and then return to their stationary positions. We were not fortunate to see this because we were never there at the right time.

No trip to Munich would be complete without a visit to the Hofbrauhause. A traditional german beer hall with oompa music and leiderhosen (yes people do wear it...not just a tourist thing). We entered the hall which was quite noisy with tourists, locals, businessmen, and the like all enjoying traditional German fare. Of course I ordered beer and a pretzel and whatever the Hofbrauhause special was. Delicious. The origingal Hofbrauhause was built in the 1400's but was later destroyed during WWII. The current version stands about 100 meters from its predecessor. After dinner in the beer garden we walked back to our hotel for an early bedtime. Traveling will truly wear you out.

Tomorrow is a 2 hour drive to Ludwig's castles and then another few hours south to Lake Constance. We'll leave from there to make our way to Switzerland.

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